Verkostungsnotiz Domaine Romanée
Conti 1990
2005-10-07 Restaurant Le
Ciel/Weinagentur Czizek
If you wake up in the morning with an intense fine
Havanna cigar aftertaste without having smoked one last evening you can be sure
of the excellent quality of the red Burgundies you have drunken last night.
I had to wait several years to find an opportunity to attend (with as far as
possible "reasonable" costs) a DRC 1990 tasting I was very interested
in since I have heard from the super natural powers of the Romanée-Conti
bottling of this vintage.
The tasting was conducted in a nice separate small room of the restaurant Le
Ciel in the Grand Hotel in Vienna/Austria. After a glass of Champagne and the
first two courses of our menu the tasting startet. The wines were decanted and
immediately served single blind (last flight double blind) in Riedel Vinum
Burgundy glasses.
Flight #1:
1990 Dujac, Echézeaux, Morey St.-Denis, Côte de Nuits,
Burgundy, France: Very light garnet, brilliant, fine tears. Slightly sweet
dry fruit in the nose, bit dusty. Medium to slim body, echo of sweet sour
drops taste, hidden melting acidity, good structure, persistent smoky
tannins. Very long finish, smoky persistent tannins, aftertaste slightly
bitter. Very good start for the first wine of a great tasting. Score: 50 + 3
for optic + 13 for bouquet + 18 for taste + 8 for overall = total score of
92.
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1990 Arnoux Robert, Echézeaux, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits,
Burgundy, France: Very light garnet, brilliant, nice tears. Vivid dark
red fruit in the nose, slightly chemical touch, later on floral note with a
hint of herbs. Medium body, bit flat, slightly sweet red fruit, good acidity
behind, soft tannins. Medium to short finish, soft velvety tannins,
persistent. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 12 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for
overall = total score of 89
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1990 Romanée-Conti, Echézeaux, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de
Nuits, Burgundy, France: Very light ruby, brilliant, nice long legs. Cool dark red
fruit, slightly ascending alcohol, bit opulent. Medium body, very soft and
round, bit dark red fruit, tannins a bit coarse. Medium finish, fruity
tannins, slightly sour in the aftertaste. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet
+ 17 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 90.
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1990 Romanée-Conti, Grand Echézeaux, Vosne-Romanée, Côte
de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Medium garnet, brilliant, nice tears. Ripe soft velvety
fruit in the nose, melting touch, very decent. Medium body, very gently soft
fruit, bit broad, some good tannins. Medium finish, bit coarse tannins and
some fruit in the aftertaste. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 17
for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 90
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1990 Dujac, Bonnes Mares, Morey St.-Denis, Côte de
Nuits, Burgundy, France: Very light ruby, brilliant, nice tears. Very decent
almost neutral nose, hint of silky red fruit. Medium body, very spicy red
fruit, very fine tannins, decent acidity, very good structure. Long finish,
fine smoky tannins. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 18 for taste +
8 for overall = total score of 92
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1990 Mugneret-Gibourg, Clos de Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée,
Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light garnet, bit of rosé, brilliant, nice
tears. Bit of barnyard, raw meat, ascending alcohol. Medium body, sweet sour
drops, slightly off note, melting acidity, good but bit coarse tannins.
Medium finish, good tannins, slightly metallic aftertaste. Seems to be
basically a very good wine but this is a bad bottle. Score: 50 + 3 for optic
+ 12 for bouquet + 16 for taste + 5 for overall = total score of 86
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Flight #1 was in total a very interesting beginning, especially the wines from Dujac
are quite nice to drink now with may be a slight preference for the Echezéaux.
The DRC wines were pleasant but not very exciting and rather inconspicuous.
Flight #2:
1990 Armand, Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru, Pommard, Côte de
Beaune, Burgundy, France: Medium brilliant ruby, good tears. Restrained dark
nose, bit yoghurt, fast changing to the smell of fresh fermented grape juice.
Medium to medium full body, massive velvety tannins, juicy dark fruit, good
but coarse acidity, in total rather rustic. Nice finish, bit coarse tannins,
juicy fruit, persistent. Obviously defect bottle, development of the nose
quite obscure. Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 11? for bouquet + 17 for taste + 6
for overall = total score of 88
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1990 Leroy, Richebourg, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits,
Burgundy, France: Light ruby, brilliant, fat tears. Classic PN-nose, silky
sweet dark red fruit, bit soft. Medium finish, dark sweet acidity, velvety
tannins, slightly sweet fruit. Medium finish, sweet fruity aftertaste, bit of
coarse tannins. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 6
for overall = total score of 89.
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1990 Romanée-Conti, Richebourg, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de
Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light brilliant garnet, good tears. Slightly cheesy
nose, cool, silky. Medium body, silky dark sweet fruit, soft melting acidity,
silky tannins, very good balance. Long finish, persistent fine smoky tannins.
Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 18 for taste + 8 for overall =
total score of 92
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1990 Gros Jean, Richebourg, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de
Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light brilliant garnet, good tears. Nose after
raw smoked pork, cool silky, dark roasted coffee. Medium to slim body,
powerful fruity acidity, red fruit, fine tannins. Medium finish, sour fruity
aftertaste, may be a hint too much acidity. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 14 for
bouquet + 17 for taste + 6 for overall = total score of 90
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1990 Romanée-Conti, Romanée St.-Vivant, Vosne-Romanée, Côte
de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light brilliant garnet, good tears. Very decent
cool silky nose, very fine red fruit. Medium to slim body, massive fine
velvety tannins, fruit rather hidden, same for acidity, slightly unbalanced.
Long finish, massive velvety but slightly green tannins, aftertaste bit hard.
Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 14 for bouquet + 16 for taste + 7 for overall =
total score of 90
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1990 Arnoux Robert, Les Suchots 1er Cru, Vosne-Romanée,
Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light garnet, some brick, brilliant, fat
tears. Fine red raspberry fruit in the nose, fine velvety. Medium body,
slightly sweet bit vulgar red fruit, hint of acidity, intense smoky tannins.
Long finish, very persistent tannins, slightly disagreeable sweet aftertaste.
Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 16 for taste + 6 for overall =
total score of 88.
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In total Flight #2 was not as interesting as Flight #1 with the exception of
the DRC Richebourg - excellent bottle with DRC signature finish and aftertaste.
The Armand Epeneaux was a bottle of my cellar - I was always a bit disappointed
from this wine and wanted to check it in a corresponding environment. Again it
did not show well enhanced by the fact that it was a defect bottle. This wine
is the ugly duckling in my wine cellar and I think it well never became a
beautiful swan.
The Leroy Richebourg was for me just another Leroy I did not find of any
interest – although I have to admit I had not this many.
The DRC Romanée St.-Vivant I found also rather not convincing.
Flight #3 :
1990 Beaucastel, Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Rhone,
France: Medium garnet, brilliant, hesitant tiers. Barnyard,
cess pool, developing into herbs and vegetables. Medium to medium full body, bit
fat dark red fruit, good acidity, massive slightly opulent tannins. Long
finish, intense persistent velvety sweet tannins. Score: 50 + 4 for optic +
13 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 8 for overall = total score of 92.
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1991 Romanée-Conti, La Tache, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de
Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light ruby, brilliant, medium to dense tears. Decent fine
smoky red fruit, very elegant. Medium body, excellent structure, elegant red
fruit, decent silky acidity, finest silky tannins. Very long finish, perfect
tannins, very persistent. Great bottle. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 14 for
bouquet + 19 for taste + 9 for overall = total score of 95.
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1990 Romanée-Conti, La Tache, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de
Nuits, Burgundy, France: Brilliant light ruby, medium tears. Very decent
silky nose, cool, hint of barnyard. Medium body, bit coarse tannins, hint of
vulgar fruit, acidity bit ostensible, slightly hot. Medium finish, slightly
hot. Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 6 for overall
= total score of 90.
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1990 Romanée-Conti, La Romanée-Conti, Vosne-Romanée,
Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light ruby, bit brick, clear, medium tears. Fine dark red
fruit in the nose, very decent velvety, persistent. Medium body, melting
acidity, bit intense red fruit, good tannins, structure yet not perfect. Very
long finish, fine smoky persistent tannins, bit of fruit in the aftertaste.
Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 14 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 8 for overall =
total score of 92
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1990 Ponsot, Clos de la Roche, Morey St.-Denis, Côte de
Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light ruby, brilliant, good tears. Hint of menthol
in the nose, fine red fruit, decent velvety. Medium to medium full body,
intense dark red fruit, may be a tad too intense, hidden acidity, smoky
tannins incredible mouth impregnating. Extra long finish, fruity silky smoky
persistent tannins. In total a tad too intense for me - else a great wine.
Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 19 for taste + 8 for overall =
total score of 94.
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1990 Vogüé, Musigny Vieilles Vignes, Chambolle-Musigny,
Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Powerful light ruby, brilliant, good tears.
Nose bit resinous, slightly opulent fruit, cherry, hint of herbs. Medium
body, powerful but fine silky acidity, bit red fruit, very mouth impregnating
fine tannins. Very long finish, fine persistent smoky tannins, aftertaste
slightly sour fruit. Great wine but not perfect. Score: 50 + 5 for optic + 13
for bouquet + 18 for taste + 9 for overall = total score of 95.
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1990 Rousseau Armand, Chambertin, Gevrey-Chambertin,
Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light and bricky garnet, clear, fat tears.
Soft red fruity nose, fine malty velvety. Medium body, ripe slight caramelized
fruit, beautiful melting acidity, velvety tannins, excellent balance. Long
finish, fine red dark fruit in the aftertaste, velvety tannins. This wine is
on top now and excellent to drink. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 14 for bouquet +
18 for taste + 8 for overall = total score of 93
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Flight #3 was a bit disturbed by a timing error concerning the main course of
our menu - it arrived in the middle of the tasting process and crashed a bit
with the fine aromas and flavours of our wines but was else as impressive and
interesting as hoped for with the (dare I say expected?) exception of both DRC
1990 wines, especially the La Tache was rather unimpressive - and this after a
corked first bottle (we were lucky though because we had a second bottle
ready).
But not only the La Tache showed rather unimpressive (at least for me) - La
Romanée-Conti failed to live up to the expectations too and this not only for
me: It was the choice for the wine of the evening for only one out of 12
tasters and this most probably by chance.
The first bottle (Beaucastel) in this flight was a pirate from my cellar known
for his reliability and some Burgundy like features and was intended as
benchmark wine. It took the challenge with grace and fitted very well in this
exclusive environment - only the rather specific nose gave it away.
The second bottle was a generous contribution from another participant and for
me the wine of the evening: La Tache 91 - quite near to a perfect wine for me
with extremely fine silky tannins.
The Ponsot Clos de la Roche was quite impressive too - for me a bit too
impressive and too intense.
The Vogüé Musigny seemed incredible young but it was stored in an especially
cold cellar and had therefore an extremely slow development.
The wine with the may be greatest hedonism factor was the Rousseau Chambertin -
rather far advanced in development in comparison with the other wines, full
maturity with an abundance of ripe aromas and flavors and an excellent
structure.
Flight #4:
1990 Rousseau Armand, Les Cazetiers 1er Cru,
Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light garnet, hint of
brick, fat tears. Cool cheesy nose, herbs, liquor, hint of barnyard. Medium
body, fine velvety tannins, good fruity acidity. Medium finish, slightly sour
tannins. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for
overall = total score of 90.
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1990 Vogüé, Les Amoureuses 1er Cru, Chambolle-Musigny,
Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light ruby, brilliant, fat tears. Cool silky
red fruity nose, very fine. Medium to slim body, bit intense acidity, coarse
tannins, decent red fruit. Medium long finish, slightly sour velvety tannins.
Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 6 for overall =
total score of 90
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1990 Engel René, Echézeaux, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de
Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light ruby, hint of brick, brilliant, fat tears.
Very classic fine PN-nose, fine velvety tannins. Medium body, massive
acidity, bit coarse tannins, low in fruit. Long finish, bit coarse tannins.
Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 16 for taste + 6 for overall =
total score of 89
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Flight #4 was not very lucky: Three a bit simpler wines were intended as
company for the main course already consumed so this was a bit of a let down.
The dessert did little help, but it was at least chocolate based and this goes
often easy with red wines but not especially good with Burgundies. I tried a
rescue with some red coated cheese varieties like Epoisses and Munster. But the
number of meanwhile tasted (and to some degree drunken - my glasses of Dujac
Echézeaux, DRC Richebourg, DRC La Tache 91 and Rousseau Chambertin were empty
after the tasting) wines was a bit too much for me and so my notes are even
less detailed as usual and the scores may be a bit erratic. The Vogüé Les
Amoureuses was anyway a bit disappointing compared with other bottles from
other vintages I had so far.
In total a rather weak performance of the DRC 1990 wines (with exception of the
Richebourg) for unknown reasons – all bottles were from the same mixed DRC case
and there is no reason to question the origin and cellaring conditions.
2005-10-09/Schriftführer
e.h.